What is HEMA?

HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is a reactive methacrylate monomer commonly used in gel nail systems to support adhesion and flexibility.

Due to its relatively small molecular size, HEMA can come into contact with the skin when products are uncured or insufficiently cured.

How sensitisation develops

Most gel-related allergies are delayed contact hypersensitivity reactions.
They do not usually occur after a single exposure.

Instead, sensitisation develops through repeated skin contact over time.

This means:

• symptoms may appear hours or days later
• reactions can worsen once sensitisation has occurred
• very small amounts, repeatedly, are sufficient to trigger the immune response

Why repeated exposure is relevant in professional use

In professional nail services, exposure does not typically come from one incident.
It comes from foreseeable, everyday contact, such as:

• product touching the cuticle or surrounding skin
• wiping the inhibition layer
• handling bottles, brushes, and tools
• contact with dust from filing
• under-curing due to lamp performance, layer thickness, or pigment density
• From a safety perspective, these repeated low-level exposures are significant.

Why HEMA-free formulations reduce avoidable risk

Removing HEMA reduces one of the more commonly associated sensitising monomers from the formulation.

HEMA-free does not remove all risk — correct application, curing, and hygiene remain essential —
but it reduces avoidable sensitisation risk in professional environments where products are used frequently.

This approach aligns with modern UK expectations around risk awareness, responsible formulation, and professional use.

Professional responsibility and compliance

Professional nail products are expected to be used with an understanding of:

• ingredient behaviour
• cumulative exposure
• long-term occupational health

Choosing HEMA-free formulations is part of a broader commitment to compliance, responsible practice, and client safety.

Great at the start.
Different a few months later.

Same product — different behaviour.

In many systems, consistency isn’t tightly controlled.

Small changes build up:

• formulation adjustments
• batch variation
• shifts in material behaviour

Same name.
Different behaviour.

How we approached it differently

Before launch, our formulations weren’t tested once and released.

• ~1 year testing with nail techs in Hungary
• ~6 months testing with UK nail techs and educators
• Real clients — full sets, infills, repeat appointments

Not one-off testing.
Used properly, over time.

What that showed

Consistency is about:

• how it behaves over time
• how it performs across different clients
• how predictable it stays day to day

How we control it now

• No constant formula changes — what you learn stays the same
• Batch-controlled production — same feel, same behaviour
• Retained samples from every batch — changes can be checked, not guessed
• Each batch checked in real salon use — not just swatches
• Feedback tracked over time — not just first impressions

Consistency is controlled — not left to chance

In real nail services, work is not always perfect.
And that’s normal.

Sometimes:

• product touches the skin slightly
• layers are a bit thicker  
• lamps are not brand new  
• work is faster because the day is busy  
• small residues end up on tools or gloves  

This doesn’t mean professionals are careless.
It means they are working in real conditions.

How we look at this as a brand?

We don’t assume perfect use every single time.
We design and choose our formulations knowing that:

• nail technicians work all day  
• small, everyday contact can happen  
• exposure builds over time, not in one moment  

That reality matters.

Why this is important for safety: 

If safety only works in ideal conditions, it doesn’t work in practice.

That’s why we focus on:

• reducing avoidable risk 
  
• using compliant ingredients  
• supporting long-term professional use  

Not because mistakes happen —  
but because real work happens.

Professional safety isn’t about perfection.
It’s about understanding real use and working responsibly within it.